Like a squirrel, I’ve been stockpiling lots of good things for my first winter in Tasmania. I’ve been saving something for you too — some special recommendations from Eric Kim. The cookbook author and NYT Cooking columnist graciously shares a couple of warming recipes for the season.
Eric’s first cookbook, Korean American, comes out in Australia in a matter of weeks and I’ve resisted buying an American version so it can be a bright spot in winter (can you tell I’m very nervous about how cold and dark it’ll be here?).
There are plenty of NYT Cooking recipes in this edition, along with recipes you won’t need a subscription to view, including Tokyo-style French toast and the weekend breakfast I make when we’re out of bread.
Eric Kim’s winter recipes recs!
I’ve found a lot of comfort in Eric’s recipes — whether I’m making them in lockdown or slowly gathering ingredients for a relaxing weekend bake. Before he joined The New York Times, I loved reading his Table for One column. So receiving his recommendations over email felt like getting my very own mini essay.
Let's see, something cosy for Tasmania...
When I developed these seared scallops with brussels sprouts, I filed it to my editor with the line: "I think this might be our next hit!" Maybe that sounds cocky, but it's one of those dishes that just feels really complete to me from a flavour perspective. It makes you smack your lips, you know? That's because you've got the intensely sour lime, balanced by the wonderful maple syrup; a little garlic powder adds savouriness (the musky kind of umami that fresh garlic doesn't provide), and Dijon really anchors the pan sauce, giving it that sharp, flavoursome edge.
I made this beans and greens stew one night when I was feeling kind of heavy from all the recipes I was testing and tasting. I wanted something clean and vegetal. I had canned beans and some leftover greens in the fridge, and I always keep doenjang on hand because it never goes bad (it's fermented soybean paste, so it's supposed to be old). I like making this stew not just because it's the kind of hearty vegetable dish that I want on a cold night, especially with white rice, but also because it's really relaxing to make. Everything builds in the same pot, and it feels like you're brewing a witch's potion. Did you ever watch Charmed growing up? You'll feel like one of the Halliwell sisters.
More tried & tested Eric Kim recipes
Eric’s bean stew is a new favourite in my house, I’ve made it at least three times this month. It’s warming and comforting, especially with soft rice (my new favourite rice cooker setting).
Maple milk bread (NYT Cooking) is easily his most viral recipe. I love the cartoony shape, its sweetness and heft. I’ve had it with salted butter, with scrambled eggs and as French toast (more on that in a bit!).
There’s a stall at the markets that sells very beautiful rhubarb. When I’m not in a hurry, I join a long line to buy a bunch for Eric’s rhubarb sauce (NYT Cooking). This recipe is such a quiet achiever — the roasted rhubarb makes weekday breakfasts feel fancy (I’ve been having it on top of Carla Lalli Music’s no-stir cardamom granola with yoghurt), and the syrup is an excellent base for soda water or ice cream, especially if you were a fan of spiders as a kid.
And if you’re in the mood for a hot dessert on a Sunday night, try his mini chocolate lava cakes and don’t forget the ice cream.
Chubby French toast + flatbread for breakfast or dinner
My local Asian grocer sells imported Japanese milk bread, which means I can make Julia Busuttil Nishimura’s Tokyo-style French toast. The bread soaks for a full 24 hours, so you can prep breakfast and look forward to it for a full day. I’ve been making it for brunch when my family comes to visit. The slices of bread slowly expand as they soak and once cooked, they’re light, puffy and perfect vehicles for toppings.
Finally, for days when we’re out of bread (or when I don’t have much brain space for dinner), I make these yoghurt flatbreads with eggs, crispy sage and lemony greens by Jessica Elliott.
Small things to warm you up ☕
Rug up and head out for a hot dessert because it’s sticky date pudding season.
Warm your cereal milk. A small, delightful habit I’ve picked up from my parents.
Order a long black with cream. I’m hoping this isn’t just a Tasmanian thing. They’re delicious and hot.
Bake a little loaf of bread, like this Comfort loaf with a hint of Marmite.
Mix up a batch of waffles to freeze, for spur of the moment toasting.
And if you need some extra motivation to get out of the house, I’ve been loving The Review podcast from The Atlantic and new episodes of the Soul Music.